Our ship arrived in Valparaiso just before sunrise and from my window, across the harbor, I could see the sky begin to lighten and the illuminated edges of clouds above the Andes. This port has a legendary history and world explorers along with those traversing the straits of Magellan stopped here. The Panama Canal ended much of that commerce. The city of Valparaiso is beautiful with steep hills, long staircases, 15 public funiculars, and bright colors everywhere on houses, murals, tiles, etc. It is an open air art museum with amazing views when you least expect it.
I visited Peru, Chile and Ecuador on this trip and we were warned about security of our personal items in each country. In Valparaiso after having walked quite a bit, I broke two rules of mine when walking alone. I typically plan my route and keep a good walking pace to appear that I know where I am going. I try never to hesitate and turn back or stop to look at a map on the street. I did both in a short time when looking for a funicular near Cerro Bellavista. I went down a small deserted street and noticed two boys I had seen on the main street where I had stopped a few times so I turned and followed a group of teenagers up another street. All of a sudden, I felt a tug, my purse which was across my body had been ripped off from behind. I yelled and the 2 girls in front of me turned around as we watched the guy running with my purse. One girl made a call on her mobile phone and a taxi driver came by in a couple of minutes and took me to the police station. The driver told two officers on motorcycles our location and what happened. As I waited at the police station for them to find an officer that spoke English, everything I had in my purse that would need to be replaced went through my mind. I was fine and truly had been enjoying this city so I tried to let go and know they are just things that can all be replaced. It was around 15 minutes later when the English speaking police officer came by said they found my purse and it was brought to me about 10 minutes later. I was amazed that everything was still there. The officer said that they likely thought someone in the group near me recognized them and they just dropped it and ran. He said they will not hurt or threaten you but just grab and run. He told me not to be worried, to stay aware and only carry what I need in my pocket. I said ‘gracias’ many times to the two lovely girls that stopped and called for help but it hardly seemed enough. I’m grateful I was not all alone as I would not have known where to go or how to explain what happened with my limited understanding of Spanish. I may never know the reason my things were returned but it’s a reminder for me to be generous with money and love.
After two days in Valparaiso, I took the bus to Santiago. There are coach buses that travel this 90 mile route all day and the cost is only $5.00 US. Recommended companies were Pullman and TurBus which is the one I chose but both leave about every 20 minutes. The city of Santiago is also beautiful with the Andes mountains as a backdrop. I was in Santiago in 2009 and enjoyed my first Pisco sour. A delicious and refreshing drink made with Pisco liquor, a brandy produced by distilling grape wine. A claim for origin of Pisco between Peru or Chile, was awarded to Peru. Both are very good but slightly different and from my taste Peru being sweeter so my preference is Chile. I may be slightly biased as it was my first taste!
It was five years ago on 5 December 2009 when I flew from Santiago to the Falkland Islands to board the icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov that would take me on an extraordinary 30 day expedition to Antarctica. Returning to Santiago in 2014 allowed me to reflect and realize my last visit was the beginning of a journey into love and forgiveness.
