After a one hour flight from Melbourne, we descended below the heavy grey clouds and could see Mount Wellington come into view as we banked into the turn for our landing in Hobart. It was more beautiful than I had imagined. I have read about, poured over pictures and dreamed of visiting this island state. When I mention this dream to others, questions often asked are; ‘where is it?’ and ‘why do you want to go there?’. My reason is that I love to explore places where few people have traveled.
Tasmania was originally attached to the continent of Australia via a land bridge which became impassable about 12,000 years ago when the ice melted and the Bass Strait was formed. Discovered by the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1642, he named it Anthony Van Dieman’s Land (later shortened to Van Dieman’s Land) after the Governor of the Dutch East Indies. The name was changed to Tasmania in 1856 in honor of Abel Tasman and to distance this land from being known as a penal colony.
I wanted to spend my two weeks exploring and had not booked accommodation except for the first night and my last four nights. I was looking forward to an adventure! My first night was downtown Hobart with dinner at Embers. I enjoyed a great pizza with mushrooms, brie and rosemary pesto. It was quite delicious with a glass of local Shiraz! Content and happy to finally be in Tassie, as the locals call it, I fell asleep with howling winds outside my window.
It was mid May (late Autumn and my favorite season) but not too cold yet. I had a few destinations in mind, otherwise I planned to go wherever the road took me for the next 10 days. A pleasant surprise were the gourmet and unique meals I found wherever I dined. If you are a foodie, Tassie is a must, they put things together using local ingredients you may not have thought of and it is amazing! Many restaurant menus list the farm or company that provides the veggies, seafood and meat. They use local sourced food and wines and this often provides meals and wines you cannot get outside of this island state. Tasmania is a small island, about the size of West Virginia or Switzerland. You can drive from north to south (364 kilometres or 226 miles) or east to west (306 kilometres or 190 miles) within a few hours. I had a rental car and my plan was to drive each day until dark and find a place to stay.
Hobart to Port Arther
I started at the information center in Hobart by the waterfront, where I bought a big map of the island. Many years ago, I had read about the Port Arthur Penitentiary becoming a Historic Site and wanted to visit. The two hour drive from Hobart was beautiful. A cloudy day that turned into sun breaks and some lovely vistas along the way.
I stayed at the Port Arthur Villas just across the street from the Port Arthur Historic site, which included a key for access through the back gate. Port Arthur was established in 1830 as a penal colony with over 12,000 convicts sent here between 1830 and 1877. Convict labor contributed to materials produced here such as worked stone and bricks, furniture, clothing, boats and ships. To support the convicts and those that worked and lived here, a settlement was established with a hospital, church, schools and gardens.
My first day at the Port Arthur Historic Site continued to be cloudy with just a few breaks of sun and still muddy from rain the previous evening. As part of the entry ticket, each person is given a playing card matched to an inmate who served time here. I walked through the visitor centre and learned about ‘my convict’ which was the 9 of clubs. Vincenzo Buccheri, a native of Sicily, was a 30 year old sailor serving in the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic War and sentenced to transportation for life in 1809 for violation of the articles of war. His crime was receiving 614 pounds of barley (valued at 30 shillings) that was the property of the King of England and he knew it to be stolen.
After walking the landscaped grounds, I took the harbour cruise that circled around the bay with 2 stops for those that purchased the respective optional tours (I had not) at Isle of the Dead (Port Arthur’s cemetery) and Point Puer Boys’ Prison which was the first prison in British Empire built for children.
In the evening, I took the Ghost Tour with the dinner option onsite at Felons Restaurant. My appetizer of oysters with Brie was scrumptious! The Ghost Tour takes you to some of the buildings with the guide telling about unexplained events and sightings from Port Arthor’s storied past which were reported by people who lived or worked here. It was a special experience to see the partially lit buildings at night and walk the dark grounds by lantern.
Port Arthur to Swansea
The next morning it was sunny and I went back to the Port Arthur Historic site and walked through the flower filled gardens, the commandant’s home and the separate prison used for solitary confinement.
Leaving around noon, I took the East Coast drive which was spectacular and with hardly anyone on the road, I was loving it! The sometimes winding road with views of the Tasman Sea and Great Oyster Bay, had me stopping often to take in the view.
The sun set before I arrived in Swansea but I easily found the highly recommended Meredith House. A lovely bed and breakfast in a 1853 refurbished house. They had availability and I chose the queen room in the corner on the upper floor of the main house. Wifi was great and there was Port in the room to have before bed. The owners recommended the Saltshaker restaurant for dinner which was within walking distance. I had the chili and lime oysters, yum!
Swansea to Coles Bay
I slept so well in my bed that I missed my scheduled time for the delicious home cooked breakfast made and served by the owners. They graciously forgave me and served a delightful meal even packing a few home-baked muffins for my drive. My next destination was Freycinet National Park which turned out to be close to Swansea. I had seen numerous photos and marveled at the lovely views of Wineglass Bay, longing to see it in person.
I had no idea it was a 2 kilometre hike (mostly uphill) to the lookout. It was worth every step! I spent over an hour at the lookout until the shadows grew long and I headed back down with wonderful views of Coles Bay. I was able to get an off season deal at the Edge of the Bay Hotel with a nice view of the Hazards. I enjoyed dinner at the The Edge restaurant and had local Blue Eye fish which was delicious.
Coles Bay to St Helens
In the morning, after a tasty breakfast of curry and scallop pie, I drove back to Freycinet National Park and walked around the Tourville Cape and Lighthouse. A nice boardwalk with a view towards Wineglass Bay to the south.
Leaving just after noon, the coastal drive along the Tasman Highway was amazing. The Tasman Sea sparkling on one side and majestic mountains rising on the other. I arrived at the Bay of Fires, stopping first in Benelong then drove out to The Gardens. In the late afternoon sun, the rocks were vibrant colors of rust-orange, red and yellow ochre. The sun set as I drove along the beach in the Bay of Fires Conservation Area.
I arrived in St Helens in the early evening and selected the Tidal Waters Hotel and Restaurant for dinner. I had dukkah encrusted perch with mashed potatoes and spinach. Dukkah is a middle Eastern blend of nuts, seeds and spices. It was new to me and I found it often in Australia and loved it so much I brought some home. My desert was a decadent chocolate fondant, similar to flourless chocolate cake…all so wonderful!
St Helens to Launceston
I left St Helens mid-morning, driving through magnificent forests and valleys with mountains all around. Very few cars on the road made my adventure feel like it was all my own. I went to St Columbia Falls, following the path crowned with branches making a fairytale like journey into the forest and could hear the rushing water leading me to the pretty waterfall.
Nearby is the Pyengana Cheese Factory and I tasted their various aged and flavored cheeses. I bought some of the cheddar that they advised would keep without refrigeration for 3 months. It did not last that long! Driving toward Launceston, it started to rain as I arrived at Bridestowe Lavender Farm where everything was my favorite color, purple! It was charming and I took a break to taste their lavender scones and drink a cup of lavender tea.
I left in the late afternoon and it was about a 45 minute drive to Launceston. I had been driving all day and the first hotel I came to was Peppers Hotel which had been recommended by the Tidal Waters Hotel in St Helens. I had a nice room with a view of the North Esk river. My dinner was at the hotel’s Mud Restaurant, a wonderful salmon dinner with oysters to start, always divine here in Tassie.
Launceston to Cradle Mountain
The morning was cloudy and a bit rainy and I took my time, not leaving until about noon. I took a quick drive by Cataract Gorge where the South Esk River flows between vertical tree covered walls. Even on a rainy day, it was a splendid view. My next destination was Cradle Mountain and I again drove through some beautiful scenery along with interesting and unique towns.
Sheffield was a charming spot in the mountains known as the ‘town of murals’. Shortly after leaving, I came to Round Mountain Lookout with an awesome view of the surrounding mountains.
I arrived mid afternoon to Cradle Mountain and opted to splurge with a one night stay at Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge. My room was actually a cabin in the woods, nice and cosy. I had dinner at the Headlands restaurant in the lodge, heavenly fresh salmon and for dessert, a satisfying chocolate fondant. The weather was quite cool and a mist rolled in but I was warm in my little cabin.
Cradle Mountain to Strahan
The morning was cold but no snow and you could feel the chill of winter coming. From my cabin, there was a nice walkway through the woods to the Lodge.
After a wonderful breakfast, I drove into Cradle Mountain National Park as the entrance was just past hotel. I parked at the end of the road and walked about 10 minutes to Glacier Rock with a divine view over Dove Lake to Cradle Mountain. I took my time walking and enjoying the warm sunshine.
My afternoon drive to the West coast was through rugged valleys with gorgeous lake, river and mountain views.
I stopped at a lookout over the Southern Ocean with a fabulous view. Driving down to the coast, I was pleasantly surprised to find myself in a pine forest and enjoying the heavenly scent. I discovered later that Huon pine, endemic to Tasmania grows in this area.
Strahan at this time of year, late autumn, was a quiet town with some great adventures to take. Montezuma Falls and the Gordon River cruise were two that interested me but it was late in the day and unfortunately I did not get to experience either one. I stayed at the Strahan Village Hotel with a great view of Macquarie Harbour from my room.
Strahan to New Norfolk
In the morning, I walked to the local bakery overlooking the waterfront in Strahan. I had a savory spinach feta quiche with coffee and walked through the Wild River Store at the harbour across the street.
On the road again, heading to Queenstown, I stopped at Iron Blow Lookout, a high point with a view into the valley below. As I drove across Bradshaw Bridge, the ray’s of sun were cutting through heavy grey clouds and landing on Lake Burbury in an enchanting scene. No one was coming from either direction, so I stopped in the middle of the road to take a photo!
Driving through Queenstown, I stopped briefly to see about the West Coast Wilderness Railway. Built in the 1800s and a 22 mile ride from Queenstown to Strahan through the forest and mountains. I would love this ride and is one of the many reasons I will return to Tasmania.
For miles, I had seen signs along the way for The Wall. I was curious and finally came across this sight as I drove through a lovely gum tree forest. I decided to stop and went in to see what it was all about. Sculptor Greg Duncan is hand carving timber panels, 3 meters hight and 1 meter wide and will be 100 meters long when complete. It is a self funded project that he began in 2005 and will depict the history of the region. No photos were allowed but the work was incredible and well worth a visit.
I was hoping to spend the night in Tarraleah from a brochure I had picked up at the information center in Hobart. Tarraleah is in the Tasmanian Highlands, originally a planned community for hundreds of pioneers and families that worked on the Hydro Plant here. It has since become a privately owned tourist destination with various accommodation and dining venues. I arrived in the late afternoon but nothing was open, no one at the Reception Center and it appeared as if all was closed for the season. I drove on, hoping to find another place to stay for the evening. It was late and dark by the time I arrived in New Norfolk where I found a basic hotel and luckily still in time for dinner.
New Norfolk to Hobart
Leaving New Norfolk in the morning, it was a pretty drive following the Derwent river into Hobart. I had been advised by everyone I met that the Salamanca Market on Saturdays was not to be missed. It was good advice and a great experience with almost 300 venders selling local crafts, food and drinks. I enjoyed walking around and bought a lovely purple scarf.
For a late lunch, I walked over to Fish Frenzy at the Elizabeth Pier with a nice view of the Derwent River on this sunny day. In the late afternoon, I drove to the Airbnb in Berridale where I would spend the next four days. The living room had floor to ceiling glass windows with a magnificent view of the Derwent river and mountains.
Berriedale and MONA
Staying in Berridale, I was a mile away and could see MONA from my accommodation. I took a full day to explore The Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) which opened in 2011. The art is arranged to be and is quite thought-provoking. It’s the private collection of multi-millionaire David Walsh, who made his money gambling and wrote the book ‘Bone of Fact’. There are no plaques or displays on the walls. You are given an iPod touch called ‘The O’ which determines your location and provides information about nearby artwork. If you provide your email, your tour (artwork you viewed via The O) is saved and you are sent a link to view online. There are artworks around the grounds outside of the museum as well which appear to be displayed to take in the beautiful scenery. The museum is on the Derwent River with magnificent views of Hobart and the surrounding mountains.
My last two days, I took time to relax spending comfortable hours admiring my splendid view of the Derwent River, thinking of all the amazing places I was fortunate to have experienced.
The incredible beauty and wilderness of Tasmania exceeded my expectations. I loved the small town feel of Hobart and seeing clothes drying on the lines outside in the fresh breeze, a common sight here. By nature, I am a wanderer. Even as I child, I was often lost as I went off on my own and they would have to call over the loudspeaker for my parents to claim me. Like historic explorers and pathfinders, to venture where few had seen or documented, is an experience that brings great joy to me. I barely scratched the surface in my two weeks exploring Tasmania but feel I have truly been to paradise.
